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Simon Kearns, a professional mountaineer and guide, shattered the unsupported Mount Rainier round-trip record after his skis broke, switching to running and completing the route in 3 hours, 43 minutes. The record was previously held by Alex King since 2021.
Simon Kearns, 25, set a new unsupported, on-foot record for the Mount Rainier round-trip, completing the 14.5-mile route in 3 hours, 43 minutes, and 52 seconds after his skis broke during his initial attempt to ski the mountain.
The record-breaking attempt was originally intended to be a ski record, but a broken ski a week prior forced Kearns to switch to running. He carried only lightweight gear, including running shoes, microspikes, and emergency supplies, and completed the route unsupported, with no outside assistance.
Kearns, a veteran guide with RMI, has previously set FKTs on other mountains, including Mount Hood and Mount Massive, and has summited Mount Rainier over 15 times. His new time beats the previous record of 4 hours, 14 minutes, and 13 seconds, set by Alex King in 2021.
Why It Matters
This achievement highlights Kearns’s versatility and resilience as a mountaineer, demonstrating adaptability in the face of unforeseen setbacks. It also continues a tradition of record-setting by guides and climbers on Mount Rainier, emphasizing the mountain’s status as a benchmark for speed ascents.
The record’s surpassing underscores the growing competitiveness and skill level within the mountaineering community, especially among professional guides like Kearns, who are often at the forefront of such attempts.
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Background
Mount Rainier has long been a site for speed records, with the first documented attempt in 1959. FKTs on the mountain are typically set by guides or experienced climbers familiar with the route and conditions. Kearns’s attempt follows a winter with limited snowfall, making glacier travel more challenging, and reflects his extensive experience guiding on Rainier since 2025.
“Getting down and knowing that I was finally done, I was really happy, and realized I could finally rest. I was definitely crying—disbelief that it had gone so well. I didn’t think I would beat the record by so much.”
— Simon Kearns
“I put a lot into this record training for it, and failed a couple of times. This proves that with persistence and proper preparation, you can achieve great things even after setbacks.”
— Kearns
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- Spike Placement: 8 forefoot and 4 heel spikes for grip
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What Remains Unclear
It is not yet confirmed whether Kearns plans to attempt other speed records or mountaineering challenges in the near future. Details about the exact conditions on the day of his attempt and how they compared to previous attempts remain unverified.
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What’s Next
Kearns intends to focus on guiding work with RMI and plans to pursue FKTs on other mountains, including Long’s Peak. He may also consider future speed records on Rainier if conditions permit.
unsupported mountain speed record gear
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Key Questions
How did Kearns manage to set the record after his skis broke?
He pivoted from his original ski attempt to running, carrying only lightweight gear and completing the route unsupported on foot, which allowed him to finish in record time.
What is the significance of this record?
This achievement highlights Kearns’s versatility as a mountaineer and reflects ongoing advancements in speed climbing on Mount Rainier, a mountain with a long history of record attempts.
Will Kearns attempt other records?
He plans to focus on guiding and may pursue FKTs on other mountains, including Long’s Peak, but future record attempts have not been officially announced.
Source: Outside
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